Trastevere
Da Enzo al 29
The soul of Trastevere on a plate
Tucked into a quiet cobblestone street in the heart of Trastevere, Da Enzo al 29 is the kind of place that reminds you why you came to Rome in the first place. The room is small, the tables are covered in white paper, and the cooking is absolutely impeccable. This is a family restaurant in the truest sense — run with pride and an instinctive understanding of what Roman food should taste like.
The carbonara here is legendary: made with guanciale, not pancetta, with a silky egg-and-pecorino sauce that clings to the rigatoni without a drop of cream in sight. The cacio e pepe is equally flawless — deceptively simple, technically demanding, and deeply satisfying. Arrive hungry, arrive with time, and let the menu do the talking.
Insider tip: Da Enzo is one of the most sought-after tables in Rome. Book at least two weeks in advance for dinner — often more in spring and summer. If you can't get a table, try for lunch on a weekday, when it's slightly easier to walk in.
✦ Must-Order Dishes
- Rigatoni alla carbonara — the gold standard in Rome
- Cacio e pepe — simple, perfect, unforgettable
- Coda alla vaccinara — slow-braised oxtail in tomato and celery
- Supplì al telefono — the best Roman fried rice balls
12:30–15:00 · 19:30–23:00









